Heather had just turned four. Yet her Mom decided it was time to teach her how to body surf at Hapuna Beach, the only true sandy beach on the Big Island. By her 8th birthday she was in the water every chance she got with her body board. By age 15, she drove herself to the side of the island with the best surf during the winter time.
But Big Island's surf is demanding. It's shallow reefs, big trade wind swells and sharp volcanic rocks are unforgiving. Surfing in these conditions since childhood turned Heather into a teacher who can truly read the ocean and judge any situation in the water.
But Big Island's surf is demanding. It's shallow reefs, big trade wind swells and sharp volcanic rocks are unforgiving. Surfing in these conditions since childhood turned Heather into a teacher who can truly read the ocean and judge any situation in the water.
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